PDF: Studio Lighting Record
information for all kinds of studio work from all studio areas at the Slade School of Fine Art
information for all kinds of studio work from all studio areas at the Slade School of Fine Art
PDF: Studio Lighting Record
Fill light makes shadows less dark by adding light to them. Photographic materials can record detail and texture in either brightly lit areas or deeply shadowed ones but generally not in both at the same time. PDF: Fill Light to Lighten Shadows
ONLY switch the Pack ‘ON’ AFTER the Flash Heads have been correctly connected. Never disconnect the Flash Head cables with out first switching the power off. High voltage goes through these cables and care should always be taken when using them. PDF: Safe Use of the Bowens Duo 2400 Power Pack
Artificial light sources let you bring your own light with you when the sun goes down, when you photograph in a relatively dark room, or when you need just a little more light than is available naturally. Different sources produce light of different colour balances, an important factor if you are using colour films. PDF: Using Artificial Light Photolamp or Flash
Many fine portraits have been made using simple lighting setups. You don’t need a complicated arrangement of lights to make a good portrait. In fact, the simpler the setup, the more comfortable and relaxed your subject is likely to be. PDF: Simple Portrait Lighting
The most realistic and usually most pleasing lighting resembles daylight, the light we see most often: one main source of light from above creating a single set of shadows. Lighting seems unrealistic (though there may be times when you will want that) if it comes from below or if it comes from two or more equally strong sources that produce shadows going in different directions. PDF: The Main Light, The Strongest Source of Light
Naturally the diagrams should only be taken as a guide, as it is impossible to accurately represent the enormous variety of heads, dishes, softboxes, reflectors and so on that are available, while using an accessible range of diagrams, nor is it possible to fully indicate lighting ratios and other such specifics. In practice, however, differences in equipment, and sometimes scale, should be small, and will anyhow at allow you to add your own personal stamp to the arrangement you’ re seeking to replicate. In addition you’ll find technical details about the use of camera, film, exposure, lens etc. along with any useful hints and Read more
1. The Key light or Principal light is the one light which dominates all the others, creating the most noticeable highlights and casting the most important shadows. 2. The Fill-in light is used to illuminate the shadows cast by the Key light, bringing the overall contrast of the subject within the range of the sensitive material. …see full text PDF: Lighting Diagrams
Flash used normally will freeze moving object and if the exposure is correct, will evenly illuminate everything within its range. But, as in every aspect of photography, creating rule braking can produce stunning results; and this is particularly the unorthodox technique of slow sync flash. PDF: Slow Sync Flash
Fill-in flash uses a combination of flash and daylight to make an exposure. It is useful in strong daylight to fill in shadows formed by existing light. The effect is natural rather than harsh. PDF: Combining Flash and Continuous Light
Flash can be used in conjunction with ambient (already existing) light. It can be very useful as a secondary light source to fill in the shadows of natural light, without losing the basic light & shade patterns nor the general atmosphere. PDF: Using Flash with Ambient Light
Light from any source – a window, a continuously burning lamp, a flash – foltows the same general rule: The light falls off (gets dimmer) the farther the light source is from an object. But light from a flash comes and goes so fast that you can’t see the effect of the flash on a scene at the time you are taking the picture. Special exposure meters are designed for use with flash; you can’t use an ordinary exposure meter to meas. PDF: More About Flash, How to Position It
The Inverse square Jaw The Inverse square Jaw is the basis for flash exposure calculations. The farther the light travels, the more the light rays spread out and the dimmer the resulting illumination. …see full text To Calculate your own Flash Exposure To calculate your own flash exposure you need to know two things: the distance that the light travels to the subject and the guide number (a rating given by the manufacturer for the flash when used with a specific film speed) …see full text Bounce Flash Travels an Extra Distance If you are calculating a bounce flash exposure, measure the distance not from flash to subject but Read more
Processing Your First Black and White Film 1. Your darkroom (kitchen, bathroom or cupboard) needs to be completely blocked out to stop light from entering. For windows use thick card cut to shape and held in place with blade canvas tape. …see full text PDF: Processing Your First Black and White Film Processing a Film Easy Even if you have never developed a film before, you are unlikely to find it very difficult. You do not need a specially-built darkroom, and once you have loaded the film into the developing tank, the rest of the process takes place in daylight. …see full text PDF: Processing a Film Easy Black and Read more
Types and Technical Data It makes good sense to work with a limited range of well-chosen films. You get to know their performance intimately – what each can contribute to your particular style of picture, its response to different subject situations and, when necessary, just how far you can abuse the film before results become unacceptable. … PDF: Films – types and technical data Understanding Film …The Basics Film is, very simply, a light-sensitive emulsion on a plastic base. An easy way to think of film is to compare it with bread and butter. Think of the bread as the base, the butter as the emulsion. When you Read more
The colour processing that we shall be using is the subtractive method. Using the subtractive filters of yellow magenta and cyan. In practise you will only use two filters at any one time, as a third filter will simply reduce the effect of the other two. In practise you will only use the filters magenta and yellow. …see full text PDF: Colour Printing Min Test Strip Print Size Exposure: Aperture – start at f8, First Test Strip: 5,10,20,40 sec, Adjust aperture to target 20 sec exposure… see full text A ring-around chart for neg/pos colour printing Filtration data shows what to subtract from present filter settings Read more
The Chemicals: There are three basic chemicals in the printing process. These are Developer, Stop and Fix. Developer brings out the latent image, the magic part of the process. Stop does what it says, stops the image from coming out any further. Fix prevents any white light from darkening, fogging, fading or otherwise affecting the finished print i.e. fixing it. Printing Equipment and materials you’ll need Making a Contact Print Step by Step Processing a Print Step by Step Development …see full text PDF: Black & White Photographic Printing Photographic Paper Most black and white paper is coated on a base consisting of paper fibre sealed Read more
Cameras and Accessories View cameras come in a variety of sizes, ranging in inches from 2 1/4″ x 3 1/4″ up to 11 x 14 formats. There are larger models, but those are usually used only for special-purpose photography because of the limits imposed by their massive size and weight. The two most popular sizes are 4×5 and 8 x 10. All monorail cameras are modular in design. These can be specifically configured in terms of bellows, monorail length, and type of back and front components to serve a wide variety of photographic needs. … PDF: Cameras and Accessories Definitions The view camera is unique because its lens and back are Read more