Botanical Adulterants Prevention Bulletin on Rose (Rosa × damascena) Essential Oil

Damask rose essential oil, known for its luxurious fragrance and benefits in cosmetics, perfumes, and aromatherapy, is one of the most expensive and sought-after botanical products¹. However, its high cost and increasing global demand make it a frequent target for adulteration, posing risks to consumers and the industry. A recent bulletin by Dr. Olha Mykhailenko, a researcher at UCL School of Pharmacy, UK, and National University of Pharmacy, Ukraine, shines a spotlight on these challenges: “Damask rose oil, valued for its unique qualities, faces serious issues due to adulteration with synthetic or cheaper natural substitutes”.

Adulteration often involves mixing the oil with synthetic chemicals or lower-cost natural oils like geranium or palmarosa, which misleads buyers but also damages the reputation of producers². The bulletin highlights advanced testing methods to identify adulteration, including gas chromatography with mass spectrometry. These tests detect key chemical markers like β-damascenone and citronellol ratios, which distinguish real rose oil from imitations³. 

Bulgaria and Turkey lead global rose oil production, supplying up to 90% of the world’s Damask rose essential oil. Despite this, only half the demand is met each year due to short blooming seasons and high production costs. With prices reaching $11,000 per kg, the incentive for fraud is significant⁴.  The bulletin emphasises that by implementing modern analytical techniques, manufacturers and quality control professionals can protect this valuable resource, ensuring its purity and therapeutic potential. For more on Rosa × damascena oil and its quality assurance methods, refer to the full bulletin. Additional information can be found through the Botanical Adulterants Prevention Program⁵. 

1. Rosa damascena. In: Tucker AO, DeBaggio T. The Encyclopedia of Herbs: A Comprehensive Reference to Herbs of Flavor and Fragrance. Portland, OR: Timber Press; 2009:415-423
2. Başer KHC. Turkish rose oil. Perfum Flavorist. 1992;17(3):45-52
3. International Organization for Standardization (ISO). Oil of rose (Rosa × damascena Miller). ISO 9842:2003. Geneva, Switzerland: International Organization for Standardization (ISO); 2003
4. IFEAT Socio-Economic Subcommittee on the Importance of Specific Naturals to the Livelihood of Those Involved in Their Production. Socio-economic impact study of the naturals: Rose. IFEAT World. 2018;(April):8-10

    5.Botanical Adulterants Prevention Bulletin on Rosa × damascena Essential Oil https://www.herbalgram.org/resources/botanical-adulterants-prevention-pr...

A/Prof., Dr. Olha Mykhailenko, DSc., PhD

MRSC; GA, PSE, ASP, ABC; LA member

Visiting researcher at UCL School of Pharmacy, UK

Humboldt Research Fellow, Kiel University, Germany

A/Prof. of the National University of Pharmacy, Ukraine

Mobile: +447864659170;

Personal page

E-mail: o.mykhailenko@ucl.ac.uk

Olha Mykhailenko: https://www.linkedin.com/in/olha-mykhailenko-aa702a160/