Roland iModela iM-01. Incorporating 25 years of Roland’s proven 3D milling technology, the iModela is an inexpensive, easy-to-use desktop device that mills wax, foam, balsa wood and plastic materials commonly used in craft and hobby projects.
The Sculpture workshop in the Berlin district of “Wedding” with an overall size of 3600 square metres and 12 metres height provides excellent conditions for artistic projects in metal, wood, stone, plaster/casting, plastics and ceramics. A 3D laser scanning system is also available.
The available space sections are designed to be able to carry out a variety of projects, including large-scale and complex designs, facilitating a work environment to the highest professional standards.
The workshop supervisors are there to offer advice on the technical realisation of projects, providing information on specific materials and are willing to help with developing solutions for unconventional ideas.
I use interparcel.com for most shipments I send. They are a broker for all the major couriers. They are much more reliable and helpful than other brokers. This means they offer low costs of major account holders. I find the 8220;Interparcel Standard8221; service the best. This is UPS in disguise. Same day pickup with next day delivery. You only have to print one A5 label an attach to the parcel, no extra paperwork like TNT or Fedex.
Interparcel have major accounts with the world8217;s largest and most trusted courier companies. Thanks to our massive buying power we have secured huge discounts off their normal selling rates. This allows us to offer you some of the lowest parcel delivery prices in the country!
We8217;re the UK8217;s largest online parcel broker
Excellent Customer Service
Largest range of courier services
Telephone, Email & Live Chat Support
They will even ship crates up to an insured value of £1000.
sugru is the exciting new air-curing rubber that can be formed by hand. It bonds to most materials and turns into a strong, flexible silicone rubber overnight.
Developed by a team of product designers and materials scientists, sugru’s patented technology is unique in its combination of hand-formability, self-adhesion and flexibility when cured. It feels like modelling clay, and it’s that easy to use too. Once cured, its durable properties mean it’s comfortable in extreme environments from the dishwasher to the ocean to Antarctica.
The RGBDToolkit invites you to imagine the future of filmmaking.
Repurposing the depth sensing camera from the Microsoft Kinect or Asus Xtion Pro as an accessory to your HD DSLR camera, the open source hardware and software captures and visualizes the world as mesmerizing wireframe forms. A CGI and video hybrid, the data can be rephotographed from any angle in post.
Another cold November night, another trip down to the dark railway arches of Waterloo for a spot of screwing and drilling. Yes, it was the second class in my beginners DIY course. This week we were to learn all about which screw goes into which surface using which wall fixing 8211; and finally get our hands on a power tool.
Back to the class on drilling and fixing. We started simple, with screws:
Pozidriv screw head.
Three main kinds exist for basic DIY: slot, Phillips (aka crosshead), and Pozidriv. Slot (-) and crosshead (+) are fairly obvious 8211; their heads look like minus and plus signs. Pozidriv, however, I8217;d never heard of. Rather than try to describe it in words, I8217;ll let the picture do the work.
Each has a corresponding screwdriver. If you use the wrong one, or one that is the right shape but too small, you8217;ll notice shearing: small slivers of metal coming off your work. That8217;s a sign you8217;re wearing down the head of your screwdriver and screw. Shearing is less likely to happen with a Pozidriv screw and screwdriver, because there are more points of contact. Don8217;t buy cheap screws 8211; they8217;ll wear down very quickly and be difficult to remove.
Easy enough 8211; the 8216;bit8217; is the end of a screwdriver. If you want to fix the slow way, then you can use normal screwdrivers. Otherwise you can buy screwdriver bits for ratchet screwdrivers, electric combi-drills or cordless screwdrivers. Magnetic ones are the easiest to fix into your (compatible) device.
Screwdriver, bradawl, ratchet screwdriver and screws
This will save you from what I like to call 8216;palm fatigue8217;; that blistering feeling from constantly moving the screwdriver handle around as you make the next turn. The ratchet screwdriver has a mechanism that allows continuous linear or rotary motion in one direction while preventing motion in the opposite direction. You can also get a ratchet offset screwdriver, which turns at 90° to the bit so that you can get into tight spaces.
We used a surprisingly small cordless screwdriver in the class. I confess to doubting their power at first, expecting a power tool to be a big, heavy beast of a thing. However, for doing fiddly little tasks, it turns out that a small cordless screwdriver is quite a handy tool. When using it, if you hear a woodpecker noise it8217;s the drill bit whipping around, bashing the inside of the screw. Make sure you have the right bit for the screw you8217;re using and that you8217;re putting enough pressure on the drill as you8217;re screwing in. This is a two-handed tool, so use one hand on the trigger and the other to add pressure. Remember, to unscrew you need to push just as hard as if you were screwing in.
My dad said I should get a corded drill 8220;because it8217;s more manly8221;. He8217;s had his for 16 years and, being resistant to change, thinks the batteries on cordless ones run out in 10 seconds flat. However, in 16 years technology has moved on quite a bit, and if you get a good drill this won8217;t happen. Go for a cordless one if you don8217;t want to faff around finding extension leads. Look for a lithium battery drill 8211; an 18V one is a good choice for DIY. Think about what you8217;re likely to be drilling 8211; if it8217;s going to include hard surfaces such as brick, you8217;ll need a hammer drill. If you have DIY mates, ask if you can try out their drills to get a feel for what you like and how easy they are to use. Or take a DIY class where you can try out different brands and sizes of drill.
Lots of machines have depth gauges included so that you can drill to a specific depth. If yours has fallen off or doesn8217;t have one, you can always use masking tape on the bit to mark how deep you want to drill.
First, remember your safety goggles! Make sure your bit is fully secured in the chuck of the drill. Your drill should have lots of torque so it can turn at high speed or low. When drilling holes, move the drill in and out in one smooth motion with the drill running. Don8217;t stop halfway through and then try to yank out the motionless drill; you8217;re likely to snap off the bit. If you don8217;t want splinters on the edges of the hole you8217;ve drilled, clamp an off-cut of wood underneath and drill into that.
Different walls need different fixings. A solid wall is made from brick, concrete or stone. A hollow wall will probably be a stud wall 8211; a wooden, brick or metal frame with plasterboard panels on top. Some walls might be bits of both. You can either knock on them to find the solid/hollow bits, or you can use a stud finder: a battery-operated tester for finding studs and voltage (so you don8217;t drill through wires).
A strip of Rawlplugs
Wall fixings are commonly known as Rawlplugs, although this is actually a brand name. You need these if you8217;re drilling things that are hard and won8217;t expand like wood 8211; we8217;re talking plasterboard, brick, cement. The wall fixing will hold and grip your screw.
A strip of plasterboard plugs
Different fixings do different jobs. A solid wall will need a bullet-shaped fixing, while a hollow wall needs one with wings (aka a plasterboard plug). All wall fixings are colour coded, and if you look closely at the strip there are etched indications of which screw and drill bit you need to use with them. If you8217;re unsure of what size hole/fixing/screw you should be using to hang something heavy or put up a shelf, err on the side of caution and go bigger.
Different materials need different drill bits. For drilling into a solid wall, you8217;ll need a masonry bit. It has a tip that looks like a Monopoly house from the side, and is made of super-strong tungsten carbide. A tile bit will drill through tiles; a twist or wood bit through wood. It8217;s a good idea to buy a set of drill bits that match the materials you8217;re likely to drill into around the house.
Many people think that you can8217;t attach heavy things to hollow walls. Not true. First, see if you can drill into a stud (the frame sitting behind the plasterboard). If not, then you can use a baton 8211; a strip of wood screwed or possibly even glued (with grab adhesive such as No More Nails) to the wall to spread the load. Fix your heavy item to this strip of wood.
A pilot hole is a useful thing to drill if you8217;re making a big hole. Use a small drill or bradawl to make a hole that guides the route for a larger drill bit or screw.
LIVE WIRES AND WATER
Fear of drilling into live wires is well founded. No one wants to end up as a spent human catherine wheel, spinning around the axis of the drill. Reassuringly, electricians these days have to place wires a certain depth into the wall. This is officially deeper than a Rawlplug. However, if your house is old these regulations may not have been in place when it was wired, so it makes sense to be extremely careful. Don8217;t drill directly above or below light switches and plug sockets. Invest in a stud finder/metal detector (as mentioned above) that will detect wires and pipes. If you do mistakenly drill into a water pipe, think of the little boy with his thumb in the dyke and LEAVE THE DRILL BIT IN THERE. Then turn off your water and call out a professional.
The fear when it comes to drilling tiles is that you8217;ll crack or split them, but this is easily avoided with confidence and masking tape. First, attach the correct drill bit 8211; you need a specific tile one. Second, put a few layers of masking tape over the drilling area. This gives the bit purchase and stops it skittering over the tile when you first apply it. Use quite a bit of pressure (but not too much), and be aware that it takes a while to get through the glaze, which is the hardest bit. You8217;ll be able to hear when the drill has broken through the glaze and is drilling the tile underneath.
A document put together by SPAR Point Group detailing the many ways that 3D data can be captured. What is 3D Data Capture
Includes image examples and a glossary of the 3D Data terms. Georeferenced, non-georeferenced, Laser scanning, Time of Flight, Phase-based, hand-held / close range, photogrammetry, structured light scanners and sonar.
• Emulsion paint for walls and ceilings (vinyl matt and silk)
• Kitchen and bathroom paint
• Paint for interior and exterior wood and metal (gloss, satinwood and eggshell)
• Undercoats and primers
• Masonry paint for exterior brickwork
• Varnishes and woodstains
• Floor and tile paint
Reclaimed paint is available in a wide range of colours and sizes – from 750ml to 10 litres. A range of ‘as new’ paint donated from commercial sources is also available.
Reclaimed paint is available from the following locations for a suggested donation of £1 per litre:
FRP The Paint Place
Unit 7 The Sidings (Off Hainault Road)
London E11 1HD
020 8539 9076 (please leave a message)
Open: Monday, Wednesday and Thursday 10am to 4pm
Closed: Tuesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday
In addition to our normal weekday opening hours FRP The Paint Place will be holding another fantastic free selected paint giveaway on the last Saturday of the summer months:
Saturday 27th April 8211; 10am and 1pm
Saturday 25th May 8211; 10am and 1pm
Saturday 29th June – 10am and 1pm
FRP ReUse Centre
2c Bakers Avenue
London E17 9AW
020 8539 3856
Open: Monday to Thursday 10 am to 4 pm.
Closed: Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
FRP also supply reclaimed paint to the following organisations where it is available to buy:
Bright Sparks Re-use Centre (Tufnell Park)
153 Fortess Road
London NW5 1AD
Open: Tuesday to Saturday 12:30pm to 5:30pm, Thursday 12:30pm to 7pm
Closed: Sunday and Monday
Enfield Re-use Centre
Units E4-6 Harbet Road (near Costco)
Stonehill Business Park
London N18 3QP
020 7324 4627
Open: Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 5pm
Closed: Sunday and Monday
Homestore (Referral Only – registration required)
Units 2 Maryland Industrial Estate
26 Maryland Road
London E15 1JW
020 8519 6264 (weekdays)
Open: Weekdays – if you are on low income or benefits, call to register as a Homestore customer
Petit Miracles ***Coming Soon***
West 12 Shopping Centre
London W12 8PP
Open: Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 5pm
Closed: Sunday and Monday
Splash Pilion (Appointment Required)
Unit 8 Clarendon Buildings
25 Horsell Road
London N5 1XL
020 7700 2498
Open: Monday to Friday 10am to 5pm – contact Howard on 020 7700 2498 to arrange an appointment
Closed: Saturday and Sunday
Our background is in fine art but our roots are in woodworking
To say we are a family firm is perhaps stretching a point: our small company feels like a family and our family8217;s roots are embedding deeply in manufacturing tradition. Tim, aged 16, was apprenticed to his grandfather in the family8217;s Yorkshire carpentry business and Roddy’s grandfather was a cabinet maker and furniture designer.
We both left the north of England to study fine art in London: Tim at Chelsea and Roddy at Central Saint Martins and the Slade school. After graduating we became involved in the London art world, which at the time was just beginning to take off in Hackney and Shoreditch with warehouse shows and parties that brought together east London’s flourishing artistic community.
We began working together and became friends at Flint Scenery. Flint8217;s was a great place to learn about making things. We worked there all hours, turning out theatre sets for Glyndebourne, Opera North, The National Theatre and The Vlaamse Opera.
After that we started London Art Workshop in Hackney, but we quickly found ourselves in demand in the commercial galleries of the West End. We have worked freelance at Sadie Coles HQ almost from the point at which it opened, and formed a close working relationship with Sadie and many of her artists which continues today.
Over time we have re-balanced our practice towards the workshop and wood-based projects, and it is here we feel most at home.