Ethnicity and the Costume of
the Roman Bride
Karen K. Hersch
(Temple University)
From
Virgil’s account of the merger of Trojan and Latin blood in the Aeneid
to Livy’s moving tale of the Sabine women and the contributions of the
Roman kings, the role of gender in the formation of Roman ethnic identity
has remained a topic of interest to classical scholars. Less well
appreciated, however, are the ways in which the blending of cultures was
commemorated by the Romans in their daily lives. In this paper, I
explore the ways in which one example of Roman costume, the costume of the
Roman bride, was an important expression of a national ethnic identity.
The Romans
viewed their modes of dress as a means by which to distinguish themselves
from outsiders. They primarily distinguished themselves from foreigners
by means of male dress: a man wearing the toga would be immediately
recognizable as a free adult Roman citizen. Virgil famously identifies
the toga as the national emblem of the Romans par excellence when in the
first book of the Aeneid, as Jupiter gives empire without end to
the “masters of the human race, the people who wear the toga” (Aen.
1.282). While Jupiter’s pronouncement prophesies not only the future
might of the Romans, but also the future emblem of that might, his words
neatly cut from this inheritance of power half of the adult Roman people,
the ones who do not wear the toga, adult Roman women.
Perhaps
not surprisingly, Roman authors attached little historical significance
to--and left little information about the origins of--the stola,
palla, and vittae, the components of the free adult married
Roman woman’s everyday attire. It is true that Roman literature makes
clear that this costume of the Roman matron was immediately recognizable
to other Romans (one thinks immediately of Ovid’s notorious cries for the
matron’s garb to be at a distance from his lovemaking: Ars Am.
1.31-32). The head covering and long dress marked the matron as chaste
while at the same time were meant to protect and conceal her chastity.
In contrast, Roman historians and antiquarians (ca. 200 BCE-200 CE) took
pains to connect the costume of the Roman bride to the very “foremothers”
of the Romans, placing particular emphasis on the ways in which the
bride’s costume and the events surrounding her reflected the blend of
ancient Italian cultures which would merge to become the Roman people.
The spear which parted the bride’s hair (Plutarch, Rom. 15, QR
87; Festus s.v caelibari hasta), the wedding-cry Talassio (Livy
1.9.11; Plutarch QR 31), and the torches which accompanied her
(Pliny, HN 16.75) were said to be of Sabine origin, as was the
ritual by which the bride was helped over of the threshold of her new home
(Plutarch QR 29). The first tunica recta, the bride’s
dress, was woven by the great Etruscan queen Tanaquil (Pliny, HN
8.194). The bride’s veil (flammeum) and hairstyle (sex crines)
were the daily accoutrements of the two best-known priestesses of the city
of Rome, the Flaminica Dialis and the Vestal Virgins, respectively
(Festus s.v. flammeo, senis crinibus). This
heavy-handed emphasis on the great antiquity and Italian provenance of the
garments and events of the Roman wedding seems at times a determined
effort by Roman authors to preempt even the suggestion that any part of
the Roman wedding owed its origin to Greek wedding ritual, although some
similarities are too obvious to be ignored (the color of the bridal veil,
the use of torches in the procession).
The
costume of the groom, the toga, stands in contrast to the elaborate
symbolism of the bride’s. We might wonder why, while Virgil tells us
that the Trojan blood brought to Italian shores was almost exclusively
brought by men, the groom’s garments did not commemorate Trojan
contributions to Roman blood. If the antiquarians were right, the Roman
bride on her wedding day wore garments that represented the blending of
Etruscan, Sabellian and Roman cultures as well as highlighted the unique
role of women in the combining of these three cultures. The wedding-day
was the one day on which the average Roman woman was expected to be the
center of public attention. The wedding was for the Roman girl the
analogy of the assumption of the toga virilis for the Roman boy; in
this respect, a Roman girl was first considered a functioning adult and a
Roman citizen on her wedding day. As the bride walked forth carrying the
symbols of great Roman women of past and present, she also proclaimed her
role in creating, and her share of, the imperium sine fine Virgil
insists that Jupiter promised to her people.
Expression of gender through
dress in Latial Iron Age mortuary contexts
Lisa Cougle (Australian
National University)
In this paper I will explore
the construction of gender in Latial Iron Age burials through dress and
personal ornament, and argue that a traditional dichotomous concept of
gender is insufficient to explain material patterning in Iron Age mortuary
culture. Gender structures defy a simple division based on biological
sex, and evolve in line with broader structural trends. I will discuss
the methodological challenges of materially distinguishing gender from
other aspects of the social persona, and explore how dress and personal
ornament reflect and reinforce Latial Iron Age gender structures.
The
Irregular Career of Rhea Silvia / Ilia in the First Millenium BC
Brenda
Haack Fineberg (Knox College, Illinois)
This study
surveys the career of Rhea Silvia / Ilia, with particular attention to
what seems to be a discrepancy between her continuous presence in literary
texts and her waning presence in visual accounts of the founding story,
especially in state sanctioned art of the Augustan period. The public art
of the early principate tends to redraw the family portrait with Mars and
Venus as the first couple. Is this just a matter of Venus’ offering the
princeps a more prestigious ancestry, or is Rhea Silvia a bit embarrassing
to Augustus as he implements his moral legislation?
In search of the
emperor’s wife: what’s behind the different identities of Agrippina Minor?
Lien Foubert (Radboud
University Nijmegen)
From
this moment it was a changed state, and all things moved at the fiat of a
woman (…). It was a tight-drawn, almost masculine tyranny: in public there
was austerity and not infrequently arrogance, at home, no trace of
unchastity, unless it might contribute to power.
[Tac. Ann. 12, 7]
This is
how Tacitus describes the influence
that Agrippina
Minor, as Claudius’ new bride, had on the history of the Roman Empire. His
reasoning deals partly with her character: she was severa,
superba and inpudica. This passage in the Annales stands
in great contrast to the words which the young senator Vitellius was said
to have spoken on behalf of Agrippina: … her moral excellences
harmonized with the rest [Tac.Ann. 12, 6]. Were they talking about one
and the same woman? According to the latter, Agrippina behaved like a
Roman matrona should: she was pure of character and fulfilled her
duties as a moral mother par excellence. According to the former, however,
she neglected her tasks as a truthful and devoted woman and used
everything within her power to gain influence for her own profit. This
paper intends to explore this dualism. It will try to place Vitellius’
statement within the broader propagandistic programme of the Julio-Claudian
emperors. In this way, it will aim to demonstrate how gender plays an
important role in the formation of female identity, also at the highest
level, that of a ruling dynasty. Attention will go to archeological
evidence which demonstrates how Rome’s central authority used references
to the ideal matrona to construct a public identity for the
emperor’s wife. This ‘artificial’ image is, for the most part, rejected by
the literary sources. Especially Tacitus did his best to show that
Agrippina Minor was anything but a perfect matrona. Finally, the
paper will try to provide a framework with which the role of gender
aspects in ancient sources could be read, in the process suggesting an
explanation for the motives behind the creation of two different
identities for Agrippina Minor.
Textile Implements in the
Early Iron Age burials: First Female Professionals of Italy?
Margarita Gleba (University of
Copenhagen)
Textile
production is one of the oldest specialized crafts that were gender
specific. Archaeological, representational and literary evidence indicates
that, in many societies, spinning and weaving was practiced primarily by
women. In Early Iron Age Italy, the textile craft became a symbol of the
female sphere of life, and women’s contribution to the community as
textile workers was expressed by the deposition of spinning and weaving
implements in their burials. Spinning tools in precious materials, such as
bronze, silver, amber, and bone, support the notion that these implements
were important symbols of femininity across different social classes. Anna
Maria Bietti Sestieri and other scholars have proposed a differentiation
between spinners, defined by a single spindle whorl, and weavers, whose
burial assemblages included several spindle whorls and numerous spools. I
suggest rather that the whorl defines the deceased as female, while spools
signify that their owner was a specialist textile worker. I will argue on
the basis of the archaeological evidence that the spool was utilized as a
kind of weight for the making of highly complex tablet-woven garment
borders known from archaeological textiles such as the mantles from Tomb
89 at Verucchio. During the Orientalizing and Archaic period, large
numbers of spools excavated at habitation sites, like Poggio Civitate and
Acquarossa, indicate the existence of specialized textile workshops.
Deposition of the spools in a burial therefore may have expressed the
deceased’s specialization in textile craft. All women practiced textile
craft, but only professionals brought all their tools into the afterlife.
Women and Cult in the Sanctuaries of Hellenistic Central Italy
Fay
Glinister (UCL)
This paper looks at anatomical terracottas, a popular form of votive
between the fourth and first centuries BC, as evidence for the role played
by women in society and cult in Hellenistic central Italy. In contrast to
the literary and epigraphic sources, this copious material reveals the
prominence in religious ritual of females, human and divine.
The lex Voconia
and the rhetoric of Empire
Bronwyn
Hopwood (University of New England, NSW)
The
lex Voconia, introduced in 169 BC, prohibited anyone registered in the
first census class from instituting a woman as heir or from leaving more
to a legatee than they left to their heir or heirs (Gaius 2.226, 274).
Many questions have been asked of this law including: what was its
purpose; why did it only target female heirs; and, what does the lex
Voconia reveal about the status of women and Roman attitudes towards
women’s property in the second century BC? This study of the lex
Voconia is a review of the lively rhetoric of women’s property rights,
the demands that the empire made upon those rights, and of the flexibility
and ingenuity the Romans displayed in adapting both law and custom to
balancing the needs of the state against the rights of its citizens.
The cults of
Demeter, Kore, and Persephone/Proserpina in Sicily and Italy (5th – 1st
century BC)
Marietta
Horster (University of Rostock)
The cults of
Demeter, Kore, and Persephone/Proserpina are often called female rituals
and festivals because of their emphasis on fertility and motherhood, their
prayers for children, the healing aspects, the mysteries and
thesmophoria thought to be acts of gender-separations etc. The paper
will offer a survey of the known evidence of the literary, inscriptional
and archaeological evidence for the ritual practices and cults of the
Demeter and Kore, Persephone/Proserpina cults in classical and Hellenistic
times in Italy and Sicily. It will be argued that there are distinctive
gender-specific aspects of these cult activities which are not reduced to
activities of women, and that even sometimes men dominate cult and ritual.
Moreover, the religious roles and involvement of women and men in these
rituals and cults esp. as priests and priestesses and cult professionals
will be presented in few examples. Finally, it will be (only cursory)
referred to differences between the (mainly) Greek traditions of Magna
Graecia in the South of Italy and in Sicily on the one hand and traditions
of cultic activities to the same (or similar) goddesses of other Italian
regions and ethne.
Women and the
Romanisation of Etruria
Vedia Izzet (University of
Southampton)
This paper
explores the role that women’s bodies played in the process commonly
called Romanization. Using embodiment theory, it will examine the ways in
which the bodies of individual women were brought into a dialogue about
what it was to be Etruscan or Roman during the second half of the first
millennium BC in Etruria. Using the objects of personal adornment, it will
argue that changing attitudes towards the identity of the body were part
of wider debates about gender and cultural identities.
Isn’t S/he Lovely? An
Investigation of Androgyny in Etruscan Art
Bridget Sandhoff (Iowa State
University)
Discussions of androgyny in the ancient Mediterranean have long been
dominated by Greece and Rome. And more often than not, the figures
examined are primarily male. The Etruscans, however, were an equally
vital civilization that remains to have this phenomenon explored more
thoroughly. Usually overlooked, a closer inspection into Etruscan art
reveals that women were an essential component of this culture and their
androgynous imagery too. Both men and women were depicted wearing
the guise of the opposite sex, challenging the boundaries of masculinity
and femininity. Etruscan objects particularly noted for this type of
imagery were their cistae. These engraved bronze receptacles were storage
containers for the beauty items of an aristocratic lady. Solid cast
bronze figures decorated the lids, and also acted as the handle. Most
often, nude or semi-nude male/female pairs adorned the lids. The curious
aspect about these couples is that they mimic their partner’s body; the
male looks effeminate with small breasts, womanly pose and hairstyle while
the female exudes masculinity with her muscular body and virile facial
features. The principal question facing Etruscan scholars is why this
type of gender-bending occurs on these cistae. Instead of a typically
curvaceous and beautifully adorned woman, sexually ambiguous couples
dominate these cistae, in fact, suppressing conventional gender-specific
appearances. Unfortunately, the reason behind this swapping of sex is
still unknown. This paper will investigate possible reasons for the
popularity of androgynous imagery on these Etruscan cistae. Could an
androgynous appearance be a type of protective “suit” for the deceased or
for females during their reproductive years? Or does the use of androgyny
signal a change in fashion/trends in Etruscan society? These questions
will be explored more thoroughly throughout the course of this paper.
Sallust’s
Sexual Revolution: Manly Women in the Bellum Catilinae
Kelli Stanley
(San Francisco State University)
This paper will examine how Sallust’s narratological
use of women in the Bellum Catilinae, particularly the roles played
by specifically named characters like Sempronia, reimagines the
characteristics traditionally associated with Roman manhood as defining
the conspirators, both female and male. Though Sallust begins with a
typical trope—ancient Roman virtus effeminized through intercourse
with the decadent luxuries of the East—his gender-blurred females and
ultimately heroic male conspirators pose a marked contrast to Cicero’s
portrait of Catiline and his cohorts. The historian thus reinvents what
it means to be a Roman and a man, and not only divorces moral or immoral
actions and relationships to the Republic from an ideal of manhood, but
attributes positive, heretofore “masculine” attributes to women, thus
severing male qualities from the male body.
Scholarship has often condemned the lengthy portrait
of Sempronia, as a “grave structural fault” (McGushin, 1978, 303), or has
claimed that it “had nothing to do with the plot at all.” (Waters,
Historia, 1070, 206). Though Syme nobly attempted a historical
justification for her prominence (1964, 193-4), she has been most
profitably interpreted as a literary device by Boyd (TaPhA, 1987)
and Wilkins (1994, 94-95). This paper builds on these predecessors by
examining Sempronia, not as a singular excursus, but rather in the context
of the odd prominence women as a whole are given in the Bellum
Catilinae and how, in turn, Sallust’s females narratively upend the
traditional Roman portrait of masculinity.
Aurelia Orestilla, who is the first of three women
specifically named, serves to underscore the perverse, antithetical nature
of Catiline, conspiracy, and the particularly crucial subordination of
animus to corpus. Sallust was particularly fond of this theme,
and established it in 1.1-3, though it recurs vividly in 2.7-9 and 4.1-2,
9, 13.5 and 26.16-17. Fulvia further illustrates this trope in an
ironic fashion, as she, unlike Aurelia and Catiline himself, does not
subordinate her mind to her body—it is precisely through her prompt
intelligence that the Republic is saved. By awarding the credit for
salvation to the quick thinking of a harlot, Sallust seems to be
minimizing Cicero’s self-promoted heroism, particularly through his
insistent “per Fulviam” (26.2, 28.2), and is endowing a prostitute
with the virtus of a Roman hero. Unnamed women, capable of inciting
slave revolts and conflagrations, appear shortly after Fulvia makes an
entrance (24.3-4). They, too, are upper-class prostitutes, and though
historians have rightly objected to Sallust’s hyperbolic fancies (Waters,
Historia, 1970, 199), the crucial element here is their context:
women—sexually aggressive women—are situated narratologically between
Fulvia and Sempronia, and provide Sallust an emotional climax of fearful
anticipation. The women’s plans are mentioned in later passages as
intrinsic to the conspiracy (30.6-7, 43.2, 48). Sempronia helps sustain
the vision of socially inverted terror that the unnamed women plan. The
conjunctive “sed in eis erat Sempronia” (25.1) clearly introduces
her as one of the aging whores. She embodies a marked internal
antithesis—she is manly (virilis) (25.1), and is defined by both by
the allure of the feminine (25.2) and the audacity, education, and
aggression of the masculine (25.2-4). In fact, she represents the most
gender-blurred character in the BC. Curiously, while Sallust
initially employs more traditional imagery of feminine avaritia
softening the manly body (11.3, 11.5), and attacks male homosexuality and
heterosexual male passivity in 13.3, he retreats from condemning Catiline
for such behavior (15.1-2). Moreover, he subsequently employs
gender-blurring imagery only when describing masculine women, not
effeminate men. With this motif, he dramatically departs from Cicero,
whose Second Catilinarian is replete with references to dissolute
pederasts and mincing catamites (5, 7, 23, 24). Sallust converts Cicero’s
images of feminized boys into portraits of assertive women. This was a
conscious choice mandated not only by Sallust’s belittling of Ciceronian
bombast, but by his desire to allow the conspirators a moving, even
tragic, Roman death. As the monograph progresses, Catiline and his
followers are no longer demonized, but rather are depicted as proper
military men—until, with their deaths, they are recognized as friends,
guests and relatives (61.8), a recognition that would not be possible if
they were depicted as the prancing boy-toys of Cicero’s rhetoric.
Thus, women—anonymous and infamous, named and
unnamed—are fundamental to Sallust’s themes and rhetorical structure, and
this paper will demonstrate not only how crucial they are to his narrative
strategy, but how their possession of “male” characteristics forever
redefines masculinity in the waning days of the Republic.
Gender
identities in the Veneto: iconography, writing and ritual in the 1st
millennium BC
Kathryn
Lomas (UCL)
This paper will explore the construction of gender
identities in the pre-Roman Veneto through both the iconography of votives
and funerary monuments, and through the pre-Roman inscriptions of the
region. Female imagery is particularly prominent in the iconography of
both votives and some grave markers, and seems to be closely associated
with specific cults and sanctuaries. In particular, finds from the
sanctuary of the goddess Reitia at Baratella (Este), one of the most
important cult-sites in the region, indicate complex gender identities
within the cult and a prominent role for women. The unusually high number
of female inscriptions, and the close connections between writing and the
cult of Reita further suggest that women may have been closely involved in
the development of literacy in north-east Italy. All of these factors
suggest that women occupied a high status in Venetic society, but there
have bee few attempts to examine this in detail. This paper aims to
critically evaluate the evidence for the role and status of women in the
region in the pre-Roman period, and variations in this in different parts
of the Veneto, as well as examining the ways in which the transition to
Roman rule impacted on gender identities and the social role of women.
Archaic Central Italy: the
non-Greek female body and the crystallization of ethnic identity
Corinna Riva
(University of Glasgow)
This paper attempts
to understand the ways in which ideas of ‘difference’ were expressed
through objects in the interaction between different groups, and how these
ideas were then exploited in defining identities and eventually
constructing ethnicity in the Archaic Central Mediterranean.
Difference may be played out in a whole variety of ways, depending upon
the cultural context in which the objects were used. Drawing from recent
studies on ethnicity, it will be argued that in a situation of affirming
identity ethnic identification is fluid, and that other types of
identities, including gender identities or identities marked by social
distinction, may intersect ethnic identification and blur its boundaries.
In certain situations, ethnic identity may have equal weight as other
types of identity, but it may also play with these other types of identity
in defining itself. I will explore these arguments by turning to the
encounter and interaction between different groups and Greek and Italic
communities in the Central Mediterranean of the Archaic period. I will
argue that overlap and mixture are key concepts for understanding the
early encounter, but that in this context ideas of difference were
expressed in burial through objects which are gender-specific. These very
ideas were subsequently exploited in defining collective identities that
were eventually constructed on ethnic grounds by both Greek and non-Greek
communities.
Fibulae are perhaps the most observable gender-specific
objects. Besides these, however, I will also consider chariots, as well as
other types of material (e.g. textiles and dress) that reveal the role of
an individual bodily mise-en-scčne in constructing a personal, not
simply gender, identity. Lastly, my analysis will highlight the non-
Greek perspective of the Greek/non-Greek encounter in the Central
Mediterranean by focusing on non-Greek cultural and archaeological
contexts that include Etruria and Picenum.
Where
have all the men gone? Sex, gender and Women’s Studies
Ruth D. Whitehouse (UCL)
This paper addresses the current status of gender
studies in archaeology and related disciplines. It identifies a worrying
trend to equate ‘gender’ with ‘women’, creating a field which is largely
about women and is dominated by women scholars. This leads to a
ghettoisation of the study of gender – which ought to be central to any
discipline concerned with human society – as part of ‘Women’s Studies’,
assumed to be of interest only to women. The recent development of ‘Men’s
Studies’ as a parallel academic field has only exacerbated the problem.
While both Women’s Studies and Men’s Studies are concerned with gender,
they are not the same as Gender Studies. In any society the categories of
women and men (as well as any non-gendered or intermediately gendered
categories) are incorporated into a unitary sex/gender classificatory
system, the members of which are defined in relation to each other. The
classificatory system may take different forms – a traditional binary
opposition, a division into a larger number of discrete types, or a
spectrum from one extreme to the other – but in all cases we need to study
the system as a whole to make sense of any part of it. Of course, a
concentration on women is an understandable response to the historical
neglect of women in earlier studies, but in the long run we need to resist
the temptation to divide gendered persons into separate groups to be
studied in isolation. If gender is to be considered a major, and perhaps
universal, parameter of human societies and take its proper place as a
central theme of mainstream archaeology, it needs to be studied in a
holistic manner, including those of all genders, and none.